2010 Ford Flex

Windshield removal and replacement instructions
By Bob Beranek
January 15, 2010
AUTO

© 2010 National Glass Association. All rights reserved. Visit GlassMagazine.com for glass removal and replacement instructions for more than 400 vehicles. To sign up to receive the For Technicians Only e-bulletin, email FTO@glass.org 

Vehicle type: Four-door utility vehicle

NAGS® numbers*: Windshield part number DW1725, third visor, acoustic interlayer

Watch for: The A-pillar reveal moldings are easily damaged if not removed properly.

*With permission from National Auto Glass Specifications. Call NAGS at 800/551-4012 or visit http://glass.mitchell.com/.

A. Windshield
Preparation

1. Cover the front seats, floorboards, dash and steering wheel with a clean drop cloth or disposable plastic covers. Note: Always wear eye and hand protection when working with glass. Make sure you have the right glass and moldings and that the urethane systems you are about to use are current. Windshield part number is DW1725.

2. Drape the fender with a fender cover and tape up any vulnerable areas on the vehicle to protect against possible damage. Tape up the defroster vents to prevent debris from falling into the openings.

3. Remove the rearview mirror. Use a door-pad tool or tack puller to depress the clip on the underside bottom of the mirror base, and wiggle the mirror off the pad. If the mirror does not come off, unplug the wire connector from the back, and remove the mirror when you remove the glass.

4. Remove the windshield-wiper nut covers.

5. Remove the windshield-wiper nuts using a 15-millimeter wrench or socket. Move the wiper arm in an up-and-down motion to break it loose from the post, or use a wiper-puller. Caution: Wipers can sometimes be hard to remove. To avoid stressing the post, use a wiper-puller.

6. The side moldings and retainers are easily damaged if not removed properly. To remove the side moldings, grasp the molding and slide it upwards toward the roof to slide the molding off the underside retainers. If you do not remove the moldings this way, the top retainer slot will break off the underside of the molding.

7. Once you have separated the molding from the seven retainers and the vehicle’s A pillar, take each retainer and turn it ¼-turn to remove from the A pillar. Slide the removed retainer into the slot on the underside of the molding. Repeat on the other side.

8. Remove the cowl panel by first removing the six pull-up center retainers along the front leading edge of the panel and the two push-in retainers at the base of the A pillar. There are four protrusions on the underside of the panel that insert into the holes along the lower part of the pinchweld; these can easily be released with your fingers or a door-pad tool.
 

9. Disconnect the washer hose on the passenger side of the cowl panel. Lift up the panel and remove from the vehicle. The end caps do not have to be removed from the panel itself; just release the corners from under the top part of the fender. Set the panel in a safe place.

10. The top molding comes already attached to the new glass. To remove the existing one, use a flat bladed tool and work up one of the corners. Then pull the molding out on an angle. It should pull out relatively easily. Don’t try to save it because of the metal core. Note: Before beginning windshield removal, verify the new windshield is the correct one and the urethanes and primers are current. Never use outdated products as this could jeopardize the structural integrity of the vehicle and the safety of its passengers.

Removal
11. Make sure cutting blades are sufficiently sharp.

12. Before cutting out the windshield, remove contaminants from the glass and pinchweld to prevent contact with the urethane. The windshield does not have gravity stops, so mount a temporary stop before removing the glass.

13. Use the cutting tools of your choice to remove the glass from the adhesive bead. The urethane bead is not very wide so you should be able to cut out the glass easily with a cable knife. If you use a power tool, lubricate the cutting area with water. Spray the top and sides; then make your cuts.

14. Take the windshield out of the opening using vacuum cups. Make sure the vacuum cups do not overlap a crack in the glass. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation.

Installation
15. After cutting the windshield out, remove contaminants such as dirt, moisture and debris from the pinchweld. Clean the dashboard.

16. Dry fit the new glass to the opening. Mark your glass using a grease pencil or retention molding tape.

17. Place your vacuum cups on the new windshield in the appropriate location.

18. Set the windshield onto the old urethane.

19. With the windshield resting in the opening, make sure it is in the right spot.

20. Adjust both sides to the correct setting, marking the passenger side, then the driver side. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation.

21. Follow the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations for installation.

22. Clean the inside of the windshield using a urethane manufacturer-recommended product. Do not touch the bonding area of the windshield after cleaning, prepping or priming it.

23. Wear powder-free Nitrile gloves to protect against harsh chemicals.

24. Apply the glass prep and primer following the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations.

25. Using the tool of your choice, remove the original urethane bead, leaving 1 millimeter to 2 mm of urethane on the pinchweld. Make sure there are no contaminants and do not touch the pinchweld after you have prepped the area.

26. Apply the pinchweld primer only to the areas where needed, and follow the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations. Allow preps and primers to dry as recommended by the urethane manufacturer.

27. Apply a triangular bead of urethane to the same path as the freshly cut urethane on the pinchweld. Before cutting your V-notch, cut the tip off of your nozzle with a nozzle-cutter. With the cut nozzle, measure to the top of the roofline, and at 1/16-inch higher than the roofline, make a mark on the nozzle with a pen or marker. Notch the nozzle up to the marked line; this will give you the appropriate triangular bead.

28. Lift the windshield from the windshield stand or workstation using vacuum cups. Set the windshield on the urethane at the mark you made during your dry fit. Lower the driver’s side of the windshield onto the urethane and line it up with the dry-fit mark; it is now in place.

29. The windshield is now ready to be decked. Press firmly to ensure a good seal.

30. Before re-installing the parts, check for leaks. Use a leak detector to go over the perimeter of the windshield. If you find a leak, apply more pressure or add more urethane to the spot and ensure that the glass makes contact with the wet urethane.

31. Re-install the removed parts in reverse order.

32. Allow the urethane to cure according to the urethane manufacturer’s recommended cure time before returning the vehicle to the customer. Warning: Disregarding the safe drive-away time that your urethane manufacturer recommends could jeopardize the structural integrity of the vehicle and the safety of its passengers.

33. You have completed the removal and replacement of the windshield.

© 2010 National Glass Association. All rights reserved. Visit GlassMagazine.com for glass removal and replacement instructions for more than 400 vehicles. To sign up to receive the For Technicians Only e-bulletin, email FTO@glass.org 


 

The author is president of Automotive Glass Consultants in Sun Prairie, Wis. Write him at bob@autoglassconsultants.com.